Are burritos the new pizza slice? Given the sheer number of greasy pie joints jammed in and around the city, the answer to that question is most certainly no — not yet anyway.
That said, stock in the humble bean wrap is definitely rising. With more than 10 new burrito shops having opened their doors in the last two years alone, T.O. is experiencing a mega-case of handheld Mexican fever. And while many herald the imminent arrival of American mega-chain Chipotle Mexican Grill as signalling the tipping point in this trend, the true indicator for us is the recent mini-explosion that’s happening east of the Yonge Street centre line. With more than three taquerias of its own and counting, we decided the time was right to explore the eastern side of Hogtown’s burrito-boom.
The Good: Until four months ago, east-enders had few places to go to get their cheesy, flour-wrapped refried bean fix: Burrito House (818 Danforth Avenue, 647-436-5099) was one of them. Bedecked in vibrant pastel colours, this quirky, two-year-old shop offers an authentic, if not overwhelmingly inspiring, experience. Service is slow, with a “there’s always mañana” ethos bordering on rudeness, and cheap tricks such as charging extra (40 cents) for guacamole can be off-putting.
The fare itself goes a way towards making up for these somewhat trifling inadequacies. Burritos come stuffed with a base of tomato-scented Mexican rice and slow-stewed beans, with lots of toppings to choose from. Tender-enough strips of chicken or steak ($5.25 small/ $6.50 large), both of which have been soaked in a greasy soup described as “Mexican sauce” are tasty enough. But the fat-oozing, crumbly chorizo sausage version ($5.85/$6.99) is easily the best, with a spicy smokiness that punches through the mass of cheese, beans and rice nicely. Burri-Tacos ($2.85 each/$7.50 for three) earn points for being served on soft corn tortillas, and a mango Jarritos soda ($2.09 after tax), eases the 20-minute wait for grub considerably.
Take an el Passo: Across the street, Burrito Grande (705 Danforth, 647-439-2643) provides all the gastro-intestinal fun of your standard fast-food shop, with none of the speedy, competent service. The menu reads like a dumbed-down, slightly more expensive version of Taco Bell’s, from taco bowl salads ($5.99) to “extreme fries” ($3.49) — which come topped with sour cream, generic ground beef taco meat and cheese. “Hand-cut” tortilla chips on the nachos ($6.59) turn out to be from a bag, and arrive loaded with tiny flecks of dry, bland chicken and improperly melted cheese. (Doubly depressing since I ordered beef, not chicken!) And the beef burrito ($6.35) itself is ruined by gigantic hunks of tomato and a West Indies–style hot sauce that doesn’t fit with the flavours involved.
The Really Good: Having made a name with its Commerce Court location last year, Z-Teca (66 Gerrard E., 416-977-5665) smartly chose the Ryerson campus for its eastward expansion. Watching smoky hunks of flank steak and chicken grill behind the counter while we wait inspires confidence, and juicy niblets of roasted corn pair nicely with perfectly salted black beans and rice in any of their mondo-sized wraps. (Prices range from $6.25 to $6.95) The beef barbacoa (like pulled pork, only made from cow) is stupendous and the grilled shrimp version (though certainly no substitute for the Burrito Boyz halibut wrap) is surprisingly good. Having three styles of salsa to choose from (chipotle red, Pico de Gallo or roasted tomatillo), and the option to go fajita style — replacing the beans with sautéed peppers and onions — provides a plethora of options. And though the three-step ordering system can be confounding, overall this joint rocks.