May 24, 2007 19:05
ADDRESS: 25 Hayden
PHONE: 416 960 0723
http://www.camroseatery.com
MEAL FOR TWO: $20
HOURS: Mon-Fri 11:30am-7:30pm
WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Yes
RESERVATIONS: No
Last week, just after noon, one of my colleagues shuffled out of his
office, shoulders hunched, a little crestfallen. He stared off into the
distance, at nothing in particular and muttered, “What kind of
disgusting crap food am I going to pick up at the disgusting crap food
court today?”
This is not an uncommon scenario. There are certain areas in
this city that appear to be purposely designed to keep those who work 9
to 5 locked in a malnourished daze. It's a cunning strategy: if you
feed the drones nothing but shredded iceberg lettuce, sandwiches with
wooly tomatoes, pasta salads made with seven-year-old white vinegar,
and the odd bowl of low-protein gruel, chances are they will be too
weak and uninspired to leave their desks, and too depressed to believe
in concepts such as “fun” and “leisure.”
Such is not the case for those who work in the Yonge and Bloor
area. Tucked away on Hayden Street is Camros – a vegetarian takeout
place that serves excellent organic, Persian-influenced dishes to a
loyal clientele and recently celebrated its first birthday. If there
were more restaurants like Camros scattered across the grid, there is
an excellent chance city-wide productivity would rise by several
percentage points.
It's a small, clean, efficient space, done up in pale bright
colours and blond woods. Behind the glass counter are steaming chafing
dishes full of stews and trays of salads, all of which scream “GET A
LOAD OF MY PHYTOCHEMICALS, CUBE-DWELLER!” If you have hands, or at the
very least an implement that allows you to point, the transaction is
quite simple: choose a two-, three- or four-item combo, point at what you want, pay and you're on your
way.
The salads are all bracingly fresh and carefully dressed. A
kale salad is glossed with a marinade of apple cider vinegar, fresh
oregano and a squeeze of lemon – taking the tough chewiness out of what
can be an unpleasantly fibrous green. It's tossed with a bit of grated
crimson beet and carrot. Beets and carrots also show up as headliners
in their own salad, sweetened judiciously with thin slices of Granny
Smith apple and tiny nuggets of toasted walnuts. The best of the lot is
the quinoa salad, tossed with green lentils and the smallest florets of
broccoli, made rich and unctuous with a squirt of homemade tahini
dressing, lightened with quality olive oil and a bit of apple cider
vinegar.
The stews are formulaic (a pulse, a vegetable, a temperate
addition of earthy spices), but carefully constructed nonetheless.
Lentils are ubiquitous: a red dal is zinged up with sour tamarind,
lemon, onions and garlic. A split yellow lentil dal is mixed with
potatoes, lime, sweet plums and an underlying note of cumin. The ghorme
sabzi is wonderfully fragrant (and so vitamin-rich it should be used in
hospitals as a cataplasm for battered livers): tender red kidney beans
poke out of a smooth dark green slurry of puréed spinach.
The healthfulness of Camros' menu is related to its
hypothetical link to productivity, at least in my imagination. It is
mind-boggling to think what might happen if food courts across Toronto
had their very own Camros. I could be in a position to quit my job to
build jet packs, and you would be finishing your blueprints for the
world's first time machine. Imagine!