INSPIRATION: Is it 1992 again? When Sonic Youth’s Dirty came out, the US was in the midst of a recession and the twilight of a Bush administration. Die-hard fans bemoaned the major-label effort (alas, this was no Daydream Nation) and the heavily rotated “Sugar Kane” music video, with its runway scenes from Marc Jacobs’ landmark “Grunge” collection for Perry Ellis. The “Guru of Grunge” appropriated Goodwill-inspired garb as haute fashion that press loved but buyers hated. It sent a message similar to Yves Saint Laurent’s 1962 pea coat — flea market staples are cool! As always, a comforting reference is never out of style.
The move to make expensive clothes look super-casual and throwaway made visual noise but, unfortunately, got Jacobs fired from Perry Ellis. Ashley Watson Recycled Leather (www.ashleywatson.net) men’s wallet, $95. League of Lovers & Thieves (www.leagueofloversandthieves.ca, 1156 Queen W., 647-435-4880).
Grunge allowed the New York designer to truly celebrate his ideal: the shoe-gazer. “I always felt like that, that I never fit in,” he said. “But that’s sort of empowering too.” Dr. Martens boots, $109.99. Neon (391 Queen W., 416-585-9595, www.neonclothing.ca).
Jacobs re-cut flannel with Italian silk: if he can do high-end DIY, surely you can DIY too (and save vintage cash) by starting that knobby wool sweater. Addi Turbos circular needle, $17.95. Cascade 220 Fine Yarn, $6.99. Goknit (www.knowknits.com) small pouch, $23. The Naked Sheep (2144A Queen E., 416-691-6320, www.nakedsheep.ca).